Turning Japanese
Alright - post number two from Japan.
This country continues to be extremely interesting. It's such a weird mix of traditional and extremely modern. The trains and technology is scarily efficient, however you often see people using old fashioned brooms, or wearing kimonos and wooden shoes.
Previously, I had always thought that it was a bit strange how the Japanese tourists in Canada and Australia always seem to be taking photos of absolutely everything. Having been here now, however, I completely understand why they do it; because even the little things are very different. I realize that I've been just as guilty of taking stupid pictures as they are....they must look at western tourists and think we are the crazy ones!
Speaking of western tourists....there aren't many. We have not run into many other Canadians or Australians. We have seen a few white people with cameras at some of the sites, but even they are far and few between. I'm not sure if it's the earthquake, the cultural and languages difficulties, or the misconception that Japan is really expensive, but there just doesnt seem to be many North Americans, Europeans or Aussies here. Really a shame as the japanese are lovely hospitable people.
When my aunt was here a year ago, she became friends with a Japanese woman (Chie) who works in the same building as the hotel we stayed at in Tokyo. My aunt has stayed in touch with her and she was kind enough to take us around to some of the local places off the tourist track. The best thing when traveling is having a local who can show you all the cool stuff that you wouldn't otherwise see.
After taking us to the Japanese pancake place (which I spoke about in my previous blog) she met up with us again the next night and we went for sushi. She took us to a real authentic sushi bar hidden a few blocks away from the fish market. We were the only non-locals there. Almost all the seating was at the counter and you can see everything be made. We sat at talked with one of the chefs, who despite his claims that he didnt speak english, was pretty good at communicating. Chie ordered a speciality plate for us which had the house specialty (eel fillet) along with tuna and whitefish sashimi, sea urchin wrapped in sea weed, fish eggs wrapped in seaweed, some sort of egg/tofu block and tuni maki. We also had tempura and a speciality roll which was similar to a California roll covered in salmon roe. I think the rolls (the California one especially) may have been the best sushi I've ever eaten. It was amazing. I'm also hooked on plum wine and liquor (on the rocks) which I don't think I've ever had before. I tasted everything, but was not especially fond of the eel or the sea urchin. Worth a try though I guess. We plan to go back on our last night in Japan, as it's been the best meal we have had so far.
Sunday night Chie met up with us again and took us to a local "magic show". This came about after my request that we do something "weird" while in Tokyo. For $60 each, we got a stage magic show, 2 table magic shows, dinner and an open bar. Dinner was pretty average (a weird mix of Japanese and Chinese food) but the rest was great. The "free drink" menu was a full cocktail list, not just beer and cheap wine as I was expecting. And the drinks were stiff.
The magic was also good. The stage show wasn't spectacular, but it was fun. The magician (named Duzzi) got me up on stage and I helped him with a trick involving peanut butter and jam (long story short the piece of bread I put in a bag on the other side of the room ended up as a sandwich with the toppings I selected). They then came around to each table doing table magic, which was much better. Lots of good card tricks, but the one that freaked us all out was when I signed my name on a card and it somehow ended up in a sealed bottle of green tea. When I opened the bottle, the seal cracked as if it hadnt been broken. Messed up stuff, especially when you are drunk. We chatted a bit to Duzzi and discovered that we were the first Canadians he has ever met. We asked "you mean the first ones you have met at the magic show?" and he clarified that, no, we were the first Canadians he had ever met in his whole life.
On Monday we took the train 4 hours to a mountainside town called Takayama. It's very historic, with lots of old traditional buildings. Both nights in Takayama we stayed at a traditional ryokan (a traditional guesthouse or inn). We had a huge room with a bedroom, a living room/dining room and a deck. The floors were lined with traditional bamboo mats and we slept on futons which are rolled out onto the floor. Dinner was served in our room where we ate at a table sitting on the floor. The meals are included in the price of the room and they were fantastic. Dinner was an 11 course extravaganza including sashimi, tempura, salads, sukiyaki with hida beef, miso soup, plum wine etc. There were also wonderful baths (like at a spa) to use. It was all very tranquil - it actually kind of reminded me of being at a spa.
Takayama was a cute town, but unfortunately a lot of things were closed while we were there. The first day of autumn was on Saturday sept 22, so naturally everything was closed in Takayama on Monday and Tuesday the 24-25. We were able to entertain ourselves alright during the day as enough shops were open, but at night it was like a ghost town. The second night we managed to find a very confusing bar to drink at. It's name (tonio's) seemed to indicate an Italian joint, however the western style decorations and bar description on the menu indicated a western bar. Then of course there were the german beer flags and menu items (long sausage?) and old 1950s American movie posters.
Other than the interesting meals and accommodation, I have found the Japanese toilets to be a great source of entertainment. I have never taken so many photos of toilets in my life. At all the hotels and in public washrooms at malls, department stores, etc there is a control panel attached to the toilet. The standard options on this 'toilet remote' include:
- a toilet seat warmer (with controllable temperature)
- a bidet
- a feminine hygiene wash
- an air dryer
Some extra options we have seen in certain restrooms include "powerful deodorizer" and "extra loud flushing sound" (which had a volume option). Sometimes, I go really crazy and use all the options. Some toilets even have oscillating options for these features. We have even seen control panels include a digital display for the time, date and an emergency call button.
We are in Kyoto now. It's completely different than Tokyo - a completely different vibe. I think I like it more as it is more laid back. I don't think I could live in Tokyo, but I could live here.
I'll post one more about Kyoto in a few days. That's all for now.
- Siobhan
This country continues to be extremely interesting. It's such a weird mix of traditional and extremely modern. The trains and technology is scarily efficient, however you often see people using old fashioned brooms, or wearing kimonos and wooden shoes.
Previously, I had always thought that it was a bit strange how the Japanese tourists in Canada and Australia always seem to be taking photos of absolutely everything. Having been here now, however, I completely understand why they do it; because even the little things are very different. I realize that I've been just as guilty of taking stupid pictures as they are....they must look at western tourists and think we are the crazy ones!
Speaking of western tourists....there aren't many. We have not run into many other Canadians or Australians. We have seen a few white people with cameras at some of the sites, but even they are far and few between. I'm not sure if it's the earthquake, the cultural and languages difficulties, or the misconception that Japan is really expensive, but there just doesnt seem to be many North Americans, Europeans or Aussies here. Really a shame as the japanese are lovely hospitable people.
When my aunt was here a year ago, she became friends with a Japanese woman (Chie) who works in the same building as the hotel we stayed at in Tokyo. My aunt has stayed in touch with her and she was kind enough to take us around to some of the local places off the tourist track. The best thing when traveling is having a local who can show you all the cool stuff that you wouldn't otherwise see.
After taking us to the Japanese pancake place (which I spoke about in my previous blog) she met up with us again the next night and we went for sushi. She took us to a real authentic sushi bar hidden a few blocks away from the fish market. We were the only non-locals there. Almost all the seating was at the counter and you can see everything be made. We sat at talked with one of the chefs, who despite his claims that he didnt speak english, was pretty good at communicating. Chie ordered a speciality plate for us which had the house specialty (eel fillet) along with tuna and whitefish sashimi, sea urchin wrapped in sea weed, fish eggs wrapped in seaweed, some sort of egg/tofu block and tuni maki. We also had tempura and a speciality roll which was similar to a California roll covered in salmon roe. I think the rolls (the California one especially) may have been the best sushi I've ever eaten. It was amazing. I'm also hooked on plum wine and liquor (on the rocks) which I don't think I've ever had before. I tasted everything, but was not especially fond of the eel or the sea urchin. Worth a try though I guess. We plan to go back on our last night in Japan, as it's been the best meal we have had so far.
Sunday night Chie met up with us again and took us to a local "magic show". This came about after my request that we do something "weird" while in Tokyo. For $60 each, we got a stage magic show, 2 table magic shows, dinner and an open bar. Dinner was pretty average (a weird mix of Japanese and Chinese food) but the rest was great. The "free drink" menu was a full cocktail list, not just beer and cheap wine as I was expecting. And the drinks were stiff.
The magic was also good. The stage show wasn't spectacular, but it was fun. The magician (named Duzzi) got me up on stage and I helped him with a trick involving peanut butter and jam (long story short the piece of bread I put in a bag on the other side of the room ended up as a sandwich with the toppings I selected). They then came around to each table doing table magic, which was much better. Lots of good card tricks, but the one that freaked us all out was when I signed my name on a card and it somehow ended up in a sealed bottle of green tea. When I opened the bottle, the seal cracked as if it hadnt been broken. Messed up stuff, especially when you are drunk. We chatted a bit to Duzzi and discovered that we were the first Canadians he has ever met. We asked "you mean the first ones you have met at the magic show?" and he clarified that, no, we were the first Canadians he had ever met in his whole life.
On Monday we took the train 4 hours to a mountainside town called Takayama. It's very historic, with lots of old traditional buildings. Both nights in Takayama we stayed at a traditional ryokan (a traditional guesthouse or inn). We had a huge room with a bedroom, a living room/dining room and a deck. The floors were lined with traditional bamboo mats and we slept on futons which are rolled out onto the floor. Dinner was served in our room where we ate at a table sitting on the floor. The meals are included in the price of the room and they were fantastic. Dinner was an 11 course extravaganza including sashimi, tempura, salads, sukiyaki with hida beef, miso soup, plum wine etc. There were also wonderful baths (like at a spa) to use. It was all very tranquil - it actually kind of reminded me of being at a spa.
Takayama was a cute town, but unfortunately a lot of things were closed while we were there. The first day of autumn was on Saturday sept 22, so naturally everything was closed in Takayama on Monday and Tuesday the 24-25. We were able to entertain ourselves alright during the day as enough shops were open, but at night it was like a ghost town. The second night we managed to find a very confusing bar to drink at. It's name (tonio's) seemed to indicate an Italian joint, however the western style decorations and bar description on the menu indicated a western bar. Then of course there were the german beer flags and menu items (long sausage?) and old 1950s American movie posters.
Other than the interesting meals and accommodation, I have found the Japanese toilets to be a great source of entertainment. I have never taken so many photos of toilets in my life. At all the hotels and in public washrooms at malls, department stores, etc there is a control panel attached to the toilet. The standard options on this 'toilet remote' include:
- a toilet seat warmer (with controllable temperature)
- a bidet
- a feminine hygiene wash
- an air dryer
Some extra options we have seen in certain restrooms include "powerful deodorizer" and "extra loud flushing sound" (which had a volume option). Sometimes, I go really crazy and use all the options. Some toilets even have oscillating options for these features. We have even seen control panels include a digital display for the time, date and an emergency call button.
We are in Kyoto now. It's completely different than Tokyo - a completely different vibe. I think I like it more as it is more laid back. I don't think I could live in Tokyo, but I could live here.
I'll post one more about Kyoto in a few days. That's all for now.
- Siobhan
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