Zimbabwe, Zambia, and Botswana

Hello again

Thank you to everyone who read my last post and sent me nice messages. I’m never really sure if anyone other than my family reads this, so it’s nice to hear from so many people!

Since you are all on the edge of your seats waiting for another instalment, here it is! I am on my way back to South Africa now (Cape Town) after a busy, yet relaxing, 4 days in Victoria Falls.  I have to say, I had a great time, and I would highly recommend a visit.

I flew right into Vic Falls airport, which was handy. Like the world’s other major waterfalls (Niagara, Iguazu) the falls are split across two countries; these ones are split between Zimbabwe and Zambia. There are two options for accommodation -you can stay in Livingston in Zambia which is nearby or you can stay right in the town of Victoria Falls itself, in Zim.  I did the latter (all the locals call Zimbabwe Zim, so I’m not just trying to start a trend). 

I decided to splurge on a nice hotel... and what a good decision that turned out to be. It wasn’t absurdly expensive and it was soooo nice. The bar area overlooked a watering hole, where elephants came to drink and socialise. Every day there was free afternoon tea and sandwiches at 3:30 and at 5:30 a free happy hour with canapés. There isn’t much better than sitting outside, G&T in hand, watching the African sun set over a heard of elephants.  I think sundowners in Africa is one of my favourite things - the sunset is just so spectacular. 

The hotel was about 10 minutes out of town, so there was a shuttle that ran in a loop all day. On the day I arrived I headed straight for the falls (Zim side). I had a rain jacket, but the hotel gave me a poncho and I was appreciative. It’s high season at the moment, so the falls are in full force and I got drenched (through the rain jacket AND poncho). I had a really good time watching the power of the falls and just getting soaked. You can’t help but smile.  The only downside was that the falls were so powerful that at times it was hard to actually see anything other than a wall of water coming at you.

I also enjoyed observing the other tourists. There was an older couple (German maybe, or Russian, I didn’t hear them say more than a few words) and the guy just wore a shirt and his speedos. And he was NOT a fit guy. I also had a lot of Africans try to take pictures with me (young men from other African countries I guess, visiting the falls). They were all very respectful and asked permission and said thank you, but they all wanted to pretend to put their arm around me. I figured they were going to take the pictures home and tell people I’m their girlfriend from Australia......but then I had two women do it as well! I guess they could be running with the same story.... There was also a whole category of people who were convinced they could see the falls without getting soaked. People trying to squeeze 3 under an umbrella (when the water is coming horizontally by the bucket), or those who took their shoes off and were attempting to keep them dry. GIVE UP. You are getting wet. So either embrace it, or turn around. Don’t pretend that your $5 umbrella is going to keep 8 of you dry. At least speedo man had accepted his fate and came prepared.

Just outside the falls is very touristy. Lots of tacky African souvenir shops, which I’m told are illegal. And then there are the African dancers all dressed in “traditional” garb. You see them all sitting around in the shade smoking cigarettes, until a tour bus pulls up, and then they are on their feet singing and dancing and trying to sucker people in for a photo.

On day 2 I decided to be adventurous and walk across the border into Zambia.  There is a bridge that connects the two. And I had a visa which allows unlimited travel between the two countries. Problem was, there is about a kilometre of dirt road on either side of the bridge that you need to walk through to get to the national park entrances. On the way, it was a little dodgy -not because of the people but because of the monkeys. The fuckers were everywhere and they are not scared of people. The trick is to just ignore them and keep walking. But I was a bit afraid I was going to get attacked. And a monkey bite in Africa is not what I need.

However, the trip was worth my while. The view from the bridge was spectacular and I quite enjoyed the Zambia side of the falls. I’m not sure if it was just because it was a different day, but the visibility was better. Plus, there was a really fun bridge to walk across where the falls are raging on either side and you get soaked. Returning was not as dodge; by that time there were lots of people walking around so the monkeys had gone.

That night I did a sunset cruise on the Zambezi river. That was a real highlight. I paid extra for the “top deck” which meant more luxurious seats, premium liquor and nice canapés. I ended up seated next to an American family and it turned out the daughter has just started with EY in Dallas. So we had lots to talk about. The only sore spot was when an incredibly rude German woman yelled at us. The daughter and I had just realised we both work at EY and we were all like “oh, no way, what a small world” and this German lady turns around and makes a big gesture to put her fingers in her ears and says “can you all shut up. Look at the scenery. I didn’t pay to hear you all talk. I don’t care that you both work at the same company, so be quiet.” We just sat there in shock until she turned around and then we all made faces at her behind her back.  If she didn’t want chit chat, maybe she shouldn’t have booked a sunset cruise WITH AN OPEN BAR. It was one of the most rude things I’ve experienced. Now, thankfully, the Americans were equally as appalled and we spent the rest of the cruise being subtle but deliberately annoying. “Shhhhh don’t you know this is a silent cruise.” “Don’t get too excited now, THATS NOT ALLOWED.” It’s nice when you are with people who can make fun of an otherwise annoying situation. Despite that, it was a cracker of an evening.

On my third day, I did a safari into Botswana. Chobe national park is only 1.5 hours from Vic Falls.  My visa also allows travel between Botswana, Zambia and Zim as many times as you want, as long as you stay in a certain region. The safari was a three hour river safari in the morning, followed by a three hour game drive in the afternoon. I have to say, I was a little disappointed. After Tanzania my expectations were high. And while I’m sure it would have been great if you had never been before, we didn’t see many of the animals I really wanted to (big cats and rhinos). We did, however, see about 100 elephants, which is not an exaggeration. I think I was just spoiled in the Serengeti.  Also, with the safari only being one day, there wasn’t really much time to really see the park.  With that said, I’m still glad I went as being on safari is pretty special, regardless of how much you see. I’m just glad I’ve already seen most things. 

This is probably a good time to mention that there are elephants everywhere. Like everywhere. You drive down the street in Vic Falls and it’s covered in elephant poo. The shuttle driver said there had been a heard of about 100 a few days before. They are also always at the hotel, hanging around the watering hole, and in safari we almost got charged by an angry bull we surprised. So, I never though I’d say this, but I’m a bit over elephants!

On my last day I decided to do a helicopter trip over the falls. I was ho-humming about it, but this couple I met at the hotel convinced me I needed to do it (after about 5 g&ts). I walked straight up to the desk and booked it then. And, am I glad I did, it was wonderful. This is another example of when making decisions drunk works out great (see also: booking a trip to Singapore while at the pub on Australia Day 2017). The flight was just 13 minutes, but it’s really all you need. That’s enough time to circle the falls 8 or 9 times, so you see everything you want to. The benefit of going by myself was that the chopper seated 5 passengers, so I got the front seat with the pilot. Definitely the best seat in the house.

So as I said, I am now on my way to Cape Town for 4 days there before going home. Not too sure what my plans are yet. I’m catching up with a guy I used to work with tonight for dinner, and then I’m doing a hike up table mountain on Friday. But nothing else decided. I probably will go out to the wine fields one day, and I wouldn’t mind going down the cape of good hope.  If anyone has any recommendations, I’m all ears. Will be interesting to see how the water shortage is impacting the city. I’ve been given lots of details as to what to expect from the people in Joberg and people I’ve met while in Zim, so I feel like I have a decent idea of how day to day life is impacted. I did have an extra long shower today though. It does look like some rain while I’m there, which is good (as long as it doesn’t rain the whole time or whilst I’m hiking table mountain).

Will post once more before I head back next weekend.

Siobhan