India - part 5
Hello. Me again. I never know how to start these things.
Anyway, I'm in Goa now, which is on the west coast of India, about 600km south of Mumbai. I arrived Thursday via what turned into a long day of travel. First, my 9am flight was pushed forward to8am and then I was delayed 3 hours (on top of my 2 hour layover) at the shockingly terrible Mumbai Domestic terminal. There wasn't even a proper restaurant in it - just a few pretty average coffee shops serving up pre made sandwiches. I managed to hold out until noon before I caved and got myself a glass of wine.
I'm staying in a hostel here which is prison themed. All the windows are two way glass and the doors are bars. It's quite new (opened in September) so its pretty decent - good showers, comfortable beds, etc. One of the best features is that they have a bunch of scooters which are free for us to use, which has been handy.
So my last week up north was good. Last weekend was Diwali, which is the Indian equivalent of Christmas. It's one of the biggest days of the year. On Saturday night the people who run the volunteer program took us out for a really nice dinner at a nice restaurant in town. I had pesto chicken pasta, cheesy garlic bread and two real cocktails. The pasta was really good, and having real melted cheese on the bread was such a treat. It really is the simple things you miss while traveling. Sometimes I feel guilty ordering non-Indian food (especially when it turns out to be rubbish), but this was really good.
Sunday was Diwali, which was good fun. We had a big dinner in the house before going up to the roof and lighting off fireworks. That seems to be one of the main attractions of the holiday - fireworks. We had hundreds to set off. One was called "the terminator" and shot off over 100 big fireworks from one wick. It was pretty nuts on the roof - everyone in the city was doing like we did, so there were literally thousands of bangs and lights everywhere. It felt like what I imagine to be a war zone like - only slightly more festive. Bangs, flashes of lights, and screeches, were everywhere. I kept thinking how this would never be permitted in Canada or Australia. I'm pretty sure half of the fire crackers being used are illegal in Canada, never mind the fact that small children were lighting them in the middle of busy streets. One of the main brands of fireworks, which we saw signs for everywhere, were "cock" brand fireworks. Big "Cock" signs were all over the city. I will leave you to insert your own joke here.
On Monday we drove about 4.5 hours to Agra, where the Taj Mahal is. While the fireworks on Sunday were good fun, it left a thicker than usual smog in the cities. Agra was completely grey, despite a "32 degree and sunny" forecast, and we were immediately concerned that it would be hard to see the Taj.
As we arrived mid afternoon, we didn't go into the Taj that evening. We went to one of the gates and wondered and found a roof top with a view of the Taj to have a drink. Sure enough, it was very smoggy, and hard to see the Taj clearly from that distance. We discovered quickly that Agra itself is an absolute hole; a miserable place. I would not recommend it, except for the one day it takes to see the Taj. Maybe the smog put it in a bad light for me (literally and metaphorically) but it was just not nice. I think the smell really put me off as well - definitely the stinkiest city I've been to yet, which is saying something.
Anyway, Tuesday morning we went into the complex for sunrise. I was pretty discouraged at first, as it was still pretty grim from afar, however as the morning progressed and as we got closer to the building, it got better and better. By8:30-9am there was actually some blue sky and it was nice.
The building itself was stunning. I think the title "most beautiful building in the world" is well deserved. This is number 6, of the 7(8) wonders of the world for me, and I would say it was the most beautiful structure I've seen yet. The smog detracted from the initial "awe" factor (Petra has it beat on that count) but once you got up close, it was just beautiful. Majestic is definitely the correct word. It's one of those places where 1,000 photos just does not seem like enough. We spent hours photographing every angle - I loved it.
Another really fun part was taking photos with Indian tourists. I dropped my usual 20 rupee per photo charge and played "celebrity for a day." At one point, I was sitting on a ledge right on the front section of the main Mausoleum part of the Taj itself, minding my own business when I was approached by an Indian family asking for a photo. I was in a good mood, so I agreed. 15 minutes and maybe 50 photos later, a security guard had to come over and break up the queue of people looking for photos. It was quite flattering given where I was sitting. I was feeling quite majestic myself after the experience. I was approached numerous other times throughout the day, and went along with it every time.
After we went to Agra fort, which is where the dude who built the Taj was imprisoned after his son overthrew him to take the throne (nice son, hey?). It was ok; seemed a bit unimpressive after the Taj. There was a moat around the fort which may be the most polluted bit of water I have ever seen. No water was visible, only garbage and one section was dark black and gurgling. Needless to say, it did not smell good. Really such a shame.
My last day at the orphanage was Wednesday. I enquired about sponsoring a child to go to school, but apparently there is a waiting list and the school year doesn't start until march. I'll look into it again in a few months - I think it would be more rewarding sponsoring a child that you actually have met. It was tougher than expected saying goodbye - they don't understand that it's bye for good and have probably forgotten me already. They all just said "bye Di Di" (which is what they call us - it means sister) as usual, and that was it. Although I did get a goodbye kiss on the cheek from a few of my favorites.
As mentioned, thursday was mostly a travel day. I sat next to a very obnoxious group of guys on the flight from Jaipur to Mumbai. I wonder if it was a boys weekend of sorts. Thankfully they all fell asleep half way through. One thing that is quite different here is the level of affection between male friends. These mates all passed out leaning on each other - heads on each others shoulders, almost cuddled up together. It's also not uncommon to see men holding hands while walking. I've seen 8 year old school boys do it, as well as 28 year old mates just chilling, holding hands. I can't imagine any of my male friends holding hands, but it's a nice enough show of friendship.
Speaking of obnoxious groups of guys, there are 3 British navy guys staying in the hostel, who may well be the roughest, stupidest people I have ever met. They're boat is docked somewhere nearby, and they've been given a few days off. So they have decided to go on an absolute bender - they were drinking beer at breakfast. Not a problem with me as I image it's pretty strict for them day to day and they need to cut loose, but the stories that they tell are just obnoxiously stupid. This morning, they all turned up with tattoos on their abdomens; "goa2k13" in cursive writing. Apparently it happened last night and none of them remember it. One of the guys was just like "its supa gay hey? oh well, nother tat. Whateva." If this is the caliber of people in the British Navy, they better hope that they don't go to war anytime soon.
Anyway, yesterday I took a scooter out and explored. I am staying in an area called Anjuna. I had a hard time deciding where in Goa to stay. The good thing is that it's in a peaceful and beautiful setting, just a short walk from a fairly quiet beach. The bad thing is that it's a bit hard to get around, so my dinner options are limited (unless I organize a taxi). I went down to Baga on the scooter, which is one of the main beaches, just to check it out. I really disliked it, so I'm glad I'm not staying there. I think it's where a lot of Indian tourists go. It was PACKED. Like not a square foot of space, even in the water. And the main road reminded me a bit of Kuta, Bali or Paweng, Koh Samui, both of which I did not care for. Anjuna beach may not be the worlds prettiest, but it was the right level of busy-ness (beach bars and clubs with lounge chairs and cocktails, but not too many people) and the water was lovely (cool enough to be refreshing). So I'm happy with that.
Today I was hungover and didn't pull myself out of bed until noon. My friend, Maria, is from Goa and recommended a restaurant well known for a local Goan dish called chicken cafreal, so I went for a scoot to go check that out. It was really really good. I have no idea how to explain it, other than delicious. Im really enjoying Goa - I think it's one of those places that grows on a person. The beaches are not amazing (Sydney has nicer beaches) but its beautiful scenery, really lush and green.
The beaches all have bars with lounge chairs, which is nice. And unlike in other places I've been, no one seems to care whether you are buying something to eat or drink or not. There is a fruit lady who comes around Anjuna beach with the most amazing fresh (exotic) fruit for very cheap. She has a huge basket with at least 20kg of fruit she carries on her head. The basket is so heavy, she can't lift it - some one else needs to help her put it on her head.
I'm here until Wednesday and then I head up to Mumbai for a few days before flying home. I cannot believe how fast this trip has passed, and that I've been here a month already! Am starting to look forward to getting home though.
Anyway, I'm in Goa now, which is on the west coast of India, about 600km south of Mumbai. I arrived Thursday via what turned into a long day of travel. First, my 9am flight was pushed forward to8am and then I was delayed 3 hours (on top of my 2 hour layover) at the shockingly terrible Mumbai Domestic terminal. There wasn't even a proper restaurant in it - just a few pretty average coffee shops serving up pre made sandwiches. I managed to hold out until noon before I caved and got myself a glass of wine.
I'm staying in a hostel here which is prison themed. All the windows are two way glass and the doors are bars. It's quite new (opened in September) so its pretty decent - good showers, comfortable beds, etc. One of the best features is that they have a bunch of scooters which are free for us to use, which has been handy.
So my last week up north was good. Last weekend was Diwali, which is the Indian equivalent of Christmas. It's one of the biggest days of the year. On Saturday night the people who run the volunteer program took us out for a really nice dinner at a nice restaurant in town. I had pesto chicken pasta, cheesy garlic bread and two real cocktails. The pasta was really good, and having real melted cheese on the bread was such a treat. It really is the simple things you miss while traveling. Sometimes I feel guilty ordering non-Indian food (especially when it turns out to be rubbish), but this was really good.
Sunday was Diwali, which was good fun. We had a big dinner in the house before going up to the roof and lighting off fireworks. That seems to be one of the main attractions of the holiday - fireworks. We had hundreds to set off. One was called "the terminator" and shot off over 100 big fireworks from one wick. It was pretty nuts on the roof - everyone in the city was doing like we did, so there were literally thousands of bangs and lights everywhere. It felt like what I imagine to be a war zone like - only slightly more festive. Bangs, flashes of lights, and screeches, were everywhere. I kept thinking how this would never be permitted in Canada or Australia. I'm pretty sure half of the fire crackers being used are illegal in Canada, never mind the fact that small children were lighting them in the middle of busy streets. One of the main brands of fireworks, which we saw signs for everywhere, were "cock" brand fireworks. Big "Cock" signs were all over the city. I will leave you to insert your own joke here.
On Monday we drove about 4.5 hours to Agra, where the Taj Mahal is. While the fireworks on Sunday were good fun, it left a thicker than usual smog in the cities. Agra was completely grey, despite a "32 degree and sunny" forecast, and we were immediately concerned that it would be hard to see the Taj.
As we arrived mid afternoon, we didn't go into the Taj that evening. We went to one of the gates and wondered and found a roof top with a view of the Taj to have a drink. Sure enough, it was very smoggy, and hard to see the Taj clearly from that distance. We discovered quickly that Agra itself is an absolute hole; a miserable place. I would not recommend it, except for the one day it takes to see the Taj. Maybe the smog put it in a bad light for me (literally and metaphorically) but it was just not nice. I think the smell really put me off as well - definitely the stinkiest city I've been to yet, which is saying something.
Anyway, Tuesday morning we went into the complex for sunrise. I was pretty discouraged at first, as it was still pretty grim from afar, however as the morning progressed and as we got closer to the building, it got better and better. By8:30-9am there was actually some blue sky and it was nice.
The building itself was stunning. I think the title "most beautiful building in the world" is well deserved. This is number 6, of the 7(8) wonders of the world for me, and I would say it was the most beautiful structure I've seen yet. The smog detracted from the initial "awe" factor (Petra has it beat on that count) but once you got up close, it was just beautiful. Majestic is definitely the correct word. It's one of those places where 1,000 photos just does not seem like enough. We spent hours photographing every angle - I loved it.
Another really fun part was taking photos with Indian tourists. I dropped my usual 20 rupee per photo charge and played "celebrity for a day." At one point, I was sitting on a ledge right on the front section of the main Mausoleum part of the Taj itself, minding my own business when I was approached by an Indian family asking for a photo. I was in a good mood, so I agreed. 15 minutes and maybe 50 photos later, a security guard had to come over and break up the queue of people looking for photos. It was quite flattering given where I was sitting. I was feeling quite majestic myself after the experience. I was approached numerous other times throughout the day, and went along with it every time.
After we went to Agra fort, which is where the dude who built the Taj was imprisoned after his son overthrew him to take the throne (nice son, hey?). It was ok; seemed a bit unimpressive after the Taj. There was a moat around the fort which may be the most polluted bit of water I have ever seen. No water was visible, only garbage and one section was dark black and gurgling. Needless to say, it did not smell good. Really such a shame.
My last day at the orphanage was Wednesday. I enquired about sponsoring a child to go to school, but apparently there is a waiting list and the school year doesn't start until march. I'll look into it again in a few months - I think it would be more rewarding sponsoring a child that you actually have met. It was tougher than expected saying goodbye - they don't understand that it's bye for good and have probably forgotten me already. They all just said "bye Di Di" (which is what they call us - it means sister) as usual, and that was it. Although I did get a goodbye kiss on the cheek from a few of my favorites.
As mentioned, thursday was mostly a travel day. I sat next to a very obnoxious group of guys on the flight from Jaipur to Mumbai. I wonder if it was a boys weekend of sorts. Thankfully they all fell asleep half way through. One thing that is quite different here is the level of affection between male friends. These mates all passed out leaning on each other - heads on each others shoulders, almost cuddled up together. It's also not uncommon to see men holding hands while walking. I've seen 8 year old school boys do it, as well as 28 year old mates just chilling, holding hands. I can't imagine any of my male friends holding hands, but it's a nice enough show of friendship.
Speaking of obnoxious groups of guys, there are 3 British navy guys staying in the hostel, who may well be the roughest, stupidest people I have ever met. They're boat is docked somewhere nearby, and they've been given a few days off. So they have decided to go on an absolute bender - they were drinking beer at breakfast. Not a problem with me as I image it's pretty strict for them day to day and they need to cut loose, but the stories that they tell are just obnoxiously stupid. This morning, they all turned up with tattoos on their abdomens; "goa2k13" in cursive writing. Apparently it happened last night and none of them remember it. One of the guys was just like "its supa gay hey? oh well, nother tat. Whateva." If this is the caliber of people in the British Navy, they better hope that they don't go to war anytime soon.
Anyway, yesterday I took a scooter out and explored. I am staying in an area called Anjuna. I had a hard time deciding where in Goa to stay. The good thing is that it's in a peaceful and beautiful setting, just a short walk from a fairly quiet beach. The bad thing is that it's a bit hard to get around, so my dinner options are limited (unless I organize a taxi). I went down to Baga on the scooter, which is one of the main beaches, just to check it out. I really disliked it, so I'm glad I'm not staying there. I think it's where a lot of Indian tourists go. It was PACKED. Like not a square foot of space, even in the water. And the main road reminded me a bit of Kuta, Bali or Paweng, Koh Samui, both of which I did not care for. Anjuna beach may not be the worlds prettiest, but it was the right level of busy-ness (beach bars and clubs with lounge chairs and cocktails, but not too many people) and the water was lovely (cool enough to be refreshing). So I'm happy with that.
Today I was hungover and didn't pull myself out of bed until noon. My friend, Maria, is from Goa and recommended a restaurant well known for a local Goan dish called chicken cafreal, so I went for a scoot to go check that out. It was really really good. I have no idea how to explain it, other than delicious. Im really enjoying Goa - I think it's one of those places that grows on a person. The beaches are not amazing (Sydney has nicer beaches) but its beautiful scenery, really lush and green.
The beaches all have bars with lounge chairs, which is nice. And unlike in other places I've been, no one seems to care whether you are buying something to eat or drink or not. There is a fruit lady who comes around Anjuna beach with the most amazing fresh (exotic) fruit for very cheap. She has a huge basket with at least 20kg of fruit she carries on her head. The basket is so heavy, she can't lift it - some one else needs to help her put it on her head.
I'm here until Wednesday and then I head up to Mumbai for a few days before flying home. I cannot believe how fast this trip has passed, and that I've been here a month already! Am starting to look forward to getting home though.
S
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